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Forget Paris - this place is buzzing, and the people are so friendly!

We spent a long weekend in September 1998 in a 3 star hotel called De Looier, very near to the hustle and bustle of Leidseplein - but far enough away that you couldn't hear it.

The "Old Side"
We found our hotel via a package with Thompson Holidays - their City Break Holidays are very reasonably priced.   The whole four days in 1998, 3 star accommodation, flights and breakfasts - for the two of us - cost less than £500.

An added bonus is that Amsterdam is currently one of the cheapest places in Europe!

If you want grown-up fun, bars, good restaurants, entertainment, sophisticated art galleries and good shopping - Amsterdam is the place.

Personally, I think Paris is over-rated and currently far more expensive than here.  Amsterdam is just as sophisticated, but with the bonus of a more laid-back atmosphere and people who literally speak your language.

And - hey! - marijuana is actually legal  to smoke here, in what they call Coffee Shops. The stuff's on sale inside, but you'll need your own roll-ups!

Centraal Station - the start of any Amsterdam visit. We found the Centraal Station to be by far the best starting point for walking around Amsterdam.

The Centraal Station - as suggested by it's name - is very central, in the north of the city.

Apart from the fact that the GWK Bank at the station seems to have the best deal on currency, here you'll also find a city tourist office offering maps & information too.

Amsterdam is one of the most virtual of cities.   As you'll see from the web sites below - just everywhere has a place on the internet.  We did most  of our research via the internet before we went, to make the most of our four days. Hopefully our links will help you too. Typical house in Amsterdam centre

So, what are the hot tips?  There are many things we learned that will make our next visit even better.

Unfortunately as a tourist on a whirlwind visit, you do find yourself making the inevitable odd mistake...!

Canal Boats

Now here's a surprise...what would you most want to do if you visited Amsterdam? .....Go on a canal boat ride...

Unfortunately, our canal boat trip was - in my opinion - a bit of a bummer. Yes, you do get to see a lot of the canal folk - but you see very little of Amsterdam itself, as it's some fifteen feet above you on the canalside!

Tourist Amsterdam

Avoid the touristy parts at all costs - you'll be continually pestered by people trying to flog you the complete range of pharmaceuticals, or half an hour with some Indonesian woman in a seedier part of town!

The pay-off for visiting the tourist places like The Old Side and Dam Square, is that there's a good range of cheap restaurants - rather like Soho in London. The old buildings are fab too, and there are some good fashion shops around. It seems to be the more popular student area of Amsterdam, which of course means more fashion, music and hip bars - which can't be all that bad.

Bars

There's so many bars in Amsterdam, it's hard to know which way to turn! In the end you find yourself adopting one or two, and whiling away a couple of hours at various times of the day & night. The so-called brown bars are the most like the ones in the UK, unpretentious, cosy and friendly. Beers vary in strength, some are quite strong like the Belgian ones.

Cycling alongside one of many canals We found some wonderful bars and cafes around the Jordaan district, west side of the city.

Here, you find a lot of high quality art galleries too - the whole area has a really good village feel about it. Rather like Covent Garden in London, or Chelsea Village in New York.

Jordaan is only a couple of canals west of the centre, and yet the regular tourist seems to avoid the area - fortunately!

Leidseplein

South of Jordaan we move towards Leidseplein - a very popular area for restaurants.  Our hotel was conveniently just a few streets away from here.

This is where to go for the clubs, live music, cheap meals, and busy European-style bars! There are two parallel streets off the square that must have at least 50 restaurants in each! We found one excellent Indonesian restaurant here at Leidsedwstr 49-51 that was so cheap - it's called Bojo.

Hot spots for entertainment in Leidseplein have to be the Melkweg (Milky Way) - most visiting international bands would appear in this club just off the square, and Boom Chicago - a hugely popular comedy club actually in the square.

In Leidsekruisstr - just around the corner from Bojo's - is a brilliant blues pub called Bourbon Street Rhythm & Bluescafe, though take note - it doesn't even open until 2200!

Museums and the Vondelpark

You really can't go to Amsterdam without paying at least a short visit to the Rijksmuseum - has to be one of the best art galleries in Europe.

Sunday afternoon, Vondelpark
The Van Gogh Museum was having a complete refit, so paintings were on temporary loan to the Rijksmuseum from the Van Gogh down the road.

While in the area, you must also check out the Stedelijk the most amazing museum of modern art. In one room  there were paintings by Dali, Hockney, Picasso and Matisse!

The museums and a very upmarket shopping area are all near the Vondelpark, which is where all the fashionable locals hang out on Sundays. There's impromptu music from Tibetan musicians and the like, people selling paintings, and there's a really cool piazza to while away the afternoon with a few glasses of wine.  It's very busy but a must to see, especially if the weather's nice as it was when we dropped by.

Open air markets

There's quite a number of open air markets around Amsterdam. I won't begin to suggest the opening times - but most are open at the weekends of course.

Waterlooplein market, just behind the modern City Hall, is a good source of antique knick-knacks and smaller gifts. You'll wish you'd bought the car by the time you've seen it all! 

Kunstmarkt is small, but the standard of modern art paintings is very good - also quite expensive! That's next to Rembrandtplein - like the Leicester Square of Amsterdam. Open only Sunday afternoons.

There's a large Flower Market at Muntorren, just west of Rembrandtplein - not half as big I guess as the huge flower auction, which we didn't have time to see.

Spui market is quite small, but again excellent paintings and sculptures on offer - at a very much more reasonable price. This market is only five mins walk from Dam Square, and open only Sundays.

Plantage

I wouldn't normally recommend seeing a zoo, but the Artis is rather special - I now realise that I picked up the guidebook in Dutch! - but it's well worth trekking out to the Plantage area of the city to see it. The Artis has one of the most amazing aquariums in the whole of Europe.

While in Plantage check out the Botanical Gardens, with it's monumental palm house, and the Museum of the Tropics.

Amsterdam Tram Amsterdam trams are so photogenic. This one was painted up to look so Eastern European I began to wonder what was in the last drink I had!
Music

Amsterdam is a real music city, and caters for all tastes.  Here's a few to get on with:

Paradiso (Live bands) Weteringschans 6

Melkweg - "the Milky Way" (Live bands) Lijnbaansgracht 234, just off Leidseplein. See their web page - details below.

Bourbon Street (Blues) Leidsekruisstraat 6 - near Leidseplein.

Cafe Soundgarden (Hip Hop) Marnixstraat 164

Eating

The excellent guide to the city from Boom Chicago! can be found in cafes and bars around the city - it's full of recommendations.  It also suggested that local Dutch cuisine is to be avoided - how honest can a Dutchman be?! - but they were dead right!  Instead, head for Thai and Indonesian cuisine - it's the best and cheapest here.

Recommended restaurants (we managed to try them all):

Kartika (Indonesian) tel. 020 618 1879  Overtoom 68, 1058 HL Amsterdam.   Excellent restaurant not far from the  Rijksmuseum.

Top Thai Herenstraat 22 - cheap Thai food.

Cafe Het Land van Walem, Keizersgracht 449. tel. 020 625 3544 Near Leidseplein. Cool and very sophisticated 60's style cafe.

Say Sate (Thai restaurant) next to the IT club, just off Rembrantsplein. Very cheap Thai food.

Nam Tin (Chinese) Jodenbreestraat 11-13, near Waterlooplein. tel 020 428 8508. Immensely popular with local Chinese business people. Huge restaurant, excellent food, but surprisingly cheap!

Bojo (Indonesian) Leidsedwstr 49-51 so cheap and very friendly!

Amsterdam Links:

 

De Looier Hotel - the 3 star hotel where we stayed

Other 3 Star Hotels

Channel Amsterdam - virtual tour of city starts here!

Aerial view of Amsterdam

Melkweg - top live music venue near Leidesplein

Boom Chicago! - top comedy spot in Leidesplein

The Artis Zoo & Aquarium

Amsterdam Guide - more pretty pictures

Amsterdam links 1 - a good reference for sites



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This page was last updated: Tuesday, 01 April 2008 (at 09:55)